Vestel washing machine does not turn on

If the plug is in the socket, the power button is pressed, but the dashboard does not “light up”, then there is only one conclusion - the Vestel machine does not turn on. The situation is unpleasant and frightening; it seems that the only way out is to buy new equipment. But the problem is not always so large-scale: many power problems can be resolved quickly and without contacting service. The main thing is to carry out diagnostics and repairs in accordance with the recommendations and instructions. We’ll tell you what to focus on and where to start, point by point.

Let's identify problem areas

When the washing machine does not start, you can see it right away. The dashboard does not blink when connected to the power supply, and pressing the buttons does not produce results - the machine is “silent”. Everything indicates that the equipment is cut off from power: electricity does not flow into the unit, the system cannot work. There are several reasons why the power supply to the machine is disrupted:

• lack of centralized power supply (in simple words, there is no light in the room or apartment);
• sticking of the network button on the dashboard;
• malfunction of the socket supplying the washing machine;
• damage to the power cord or its plug;
• burnout of the interference filter (FPS);
• break in internal wiring;
• failure of the control board or other electronic element.

The Vestel washing machine does not turn on if there are problems with the power supply: it is missing or does not “reach” the control board.

A comprehensive diagnostic of external electrical communications and the washing machine itself will help determine the cause of the failure. You will have to consistently check all possible problems, from wires and sockets to the FPS and the electronic unit. It’s better to start with electrics and end with internal problems of Vestel.

Electrical or FPS

The first step is to flip the switch. Perhaps there is no problem - there is simply a temporary lack of power in the room. The next step is to go to the dashboard and look at the machines and traffic jams. Sometimes, when several powerful devices and equipment are simultaneously connected to the network, the line cannot withstand it, the current load goes off scale and the RCD is triggered. In this case, it is enough to disconnect unnecessary “consumers” and start the system again. Next, pay attention to the socket. Often the breakdown is visible to the naked eye:

• there are dark spots;
• there is a burning smell;
• there is smoke coming from the socket;
• The socket body is melted.

If the electrical point is “clean”, then we check its serviceability by connecting any working device, hair dryer or lamp to the network. Did the device buzz or light up? Then the socket is intact, and you need to look for the culprit elsewhere. No contact? We'll have to completely change the output.

Having completed checking external electrical communications, we move on to diagnosing the Vestel washing machine. More precisely, to its power cord. The cable and plug must be carefully inspected for signs of fire, and then the buzzer must ring. If cracks are found or a leak is identified, local repairs with electrical tape or twisting are contraindicated. The wire only changes completely!

The interference filter cannot be repaired - only replaced with a new one!

The next thing to check is the interference filter. FPS is a small “jar” that protects Vestel electronics that are sensitive to voltage surges. During sudden current surges, the device “triggers” and burns out, thereby blocking the flow of electricity to the key components of the washing machine.If this happens, the element must be dismantled and replaced with a new one. You can find out whether the FPS has burned out using inspection and a multimeter. We proceed like this:

• disconnect Vestel from communications;
• remove the top cover (loosen the fixing bolts, move the panel back, and then lift and press the latches);
• we find the place where the power wire is connected to the washing machine;
• We are looking for an interference filter next to the power cord - a barrel-shaped element of black or white color;
• disconnect the connected wiring from the FPS;
• We take out the part from the machine.

First, the capacitor is inspected for dark spots and melted contacts. If everything looks good, then take a multimeter, turn it on in buzzer mode and ring the filter. Then we measure the resistance: the display of the values ​​“0” or “1” will indicate a malfunction of the FPS. The part cannot be repaired, only a new one can be installed.

The problem lies in the button

A stuck power button can also lead to a blackout of the washing machine. Old Vestel models often suffer from this - a closed key cuts off the supply of electricity to the control board, stopping the entire system. Especially if the machine does not provide protection for the dashboard from moisture and is located in the bathroom or shower. Water gets under the cover and oxidizes the contacts, disrupting current exchange. The serviceability of the button is checked using the following instructions:

• remove the cover from the Vestel;
• Find the power button on the back of the dashboard;
• disconnect from the wiring key;
• pry up the plastic with a screwdriver, press the latches and take it out.

The removed button is tested with a multimeter: first for breakdown, then for resistance. If a deviation from the norm is detected, you will have to remove the old one and install a new key.In some cases, stripping the cores helps restore contact, but it is better not to risk it and immediately replace the plastic.

The worst case scenario is that the module burned out.

If everything is in order with electrical communications, the cord, the FPS and the network button, then there is only one option left - a failure in the electronic unit. This breakdown is considered the most difficult and costly to repair. The fact is that microcircuits, tracks and relays on the board are extremely sensitive to voltage drops and during sudden surges they burn out, disrupting the entire “chain”. It is difficult to identify the affected element - there are dozens and sometimes hundreds of them.

To diagnose the board, you need to carefully ring it, which can only be done by a service specialist. At home, you can only inspect the board - sometimes the breakdown is visible to the naked eye. We proceed like this:

• fully extend the powder receptacle;
• in the vacated hole we find and unscrew two screws;
• remove the top cover from the case;
• unscrew the bolts securing the “tidy”;
• half the panel using a flat screwdriver;
• we get the payment.

You need to look for signs of a problem - stains, oxidized contacts, melted wires. If there are no defects, then you should contact the service. Often the board fails unnoticed, and the failure is detected by painstaking ringing. It is not recommended to test the module yourself - the slightest mistake will aggravate the problem.

Reader comments

• Share your opinion - leave a comment