The washing machine makes noise when heating water

The washing machine makes noise when heating waterMany craftsmen have had to deal with the problem that the washing machine hums when heating the water. When the tank is filled and the heating element starts to work, a rather strong crackling noise is heard. After some time, the noise stops, the washing machine runs the program normally and completes the cycle. Let's figure out what this sound indicates and how to eliminate it.

Can the heating element crack?

To answer the question, just listen to the electric kettle boiling. A working heating element may hiss, but this sound cannot be called a crackling sound. In addition, the heating element of the washing machine operates even quieter - it is drowned out by the gurgling of water and the hum from the rotating drum.

Only a damaged heating element can crack during operation.

It happens that the heating element shorts out, and a characteristic cracking sound is heard. Then the machine will not be able to continue the cycle - the protective device will work and the equipment will be de-energized. Current leakage is extremely dangerous, so using even a washing machine that crackles slightly during heating is strictly prohibited. In such a situation, it is important not to plug the machine into the network until the damaged heating element is replaced.The heating element is humming due to a breakdown

Sometimes a working tubular heater may crack a little when water boils in the drum. You should be wary of this sound if you have started a washing program that requires heating to 30-40°C. If the machine overheats the water, you can forget about washing delicate fabrics.

The reason for this behavior of the washing machine may be a faulty heating element, thermostat or damaged control module. To fix the problem, you will need to diagnose the machine parts.We'll tell you how to check the heater and temperature sensor.

Testing the heating element

If the washing machine makes noise while heating the water, it is better not to put off diagnosing the heating element. You can check the element yourself, at home. To work, you will need a screwdriver, pliers and a special device - a multimeter.

On most washers, the tubular heater is located at the back, under the tank. On some models the element is located in the front. The instructions for the machine will help you understand where to look for heating elements.

Usually the heating element is located at the back. To get to it you need to:

  • turn off the power to the machine;
  • close the valve responsible for the water supply;
  • unhook the inlet and drain hoses from the body;
  • remove the top cover by unscrewing the two bolts holding it;
  • Remove the back panel of the case by removing the screws securing it.

After this, you can see the heating element - it is located in a special socket under the tank. The further algorithm of actions is as follows:

  • take a photo of the wiring diagram for connecting the heater and thermistor (the photo will help prevent mistakes during reassembly);
  • reset the terminals;carefully check the heating element with a multimeter
  • switch the multimeter to ohmmeter mode, set the resistance on the device to 200 ohms;
  • attach the tester probes to the heater contacts;
  • evaluate the values ​​on the device display.

A working heating element should display a resistance of 26-28 ohms to the multimeter.

If the tester screen displays 1, it means there is an internal wiring break. The zero displayed on the display will indicate a short circuit. A faulty heating element cannot be repaired; the element must be replaced.

When the multimeter produces normal values ​​during diagnostics, you need to check the tubular element for breakdown.The tester is switched to buzzer mode, one of its probes leans against the body of the heating element. If the device beeps, it’s time to change the heater.

Sometimes it may be difficult to remove the old heating element - the seal expands, blocking the element. To get the heater you need to:

  • loosen the nut securing it;
  • press the central bolt inward;
  • generously spray the gum with dishwashing liquid;
  • After 20-30 minutes, remove the heating element using rocking movements.

You should buy a new heating element based on the model of the washing machine. It is better to bring the dismantled heater to the store and, together with the seller, select an analogue. Installation of the part is performed in reverse order.

If the heating element is working

Sometimes the reason that the machine makes noise when heating is not a tubular element. Therefore, if no problems were identified during the diagnosis of the heating element, you need to check the temperature sensor. The thermistor is located on the heater body, next to the central nut. To test a temperature sensor with a multimeter, you must:

  • remove all connected wires from the thermistor;
  • unhook the element from the heating element;checking the thermistor with a multimeter
  • switch the tester to ohmmeter mode;
  • place the multimeter probes against the sensor contacts;
  • evaluate the instrument readings.

A working thermostat at room temperature should display a resistance within 6000 Ohms to the multimeter.

After this, immerse the sensor in hot water (approximately 50-60°C) for a few minutes. Normally, the resistance should drop to 1300 ohms. If the changes on the device display are different, it means that the thermostat is not functioning correctly and will have to be replaced.

If the thermistor is working properly, inspect the wires connected to it and the heating element, make sure that there are no loose contacts. If everything is in order, you will have to check the control module.The electronics may be faulty, and specialist help will be needed to fix the problem.

   

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