How to replace the heating element in a Haier washing machine?
If, after 20 minutes from the start of the high-temperature wash, the glass of the hatch remains cold, it means that the water is not warming up. In most cases, the reason for this is a failed heating element. Operating a machine with a faulty tubular heater is dangerous, so you need to check the element as soon as possible. We'll figure out how to diagnose and replace the part if necessary.
We purchase the necessary spare parts
You can replace the heating element in a Haier washing machine yourself, without calling a technician. This procedure is quite simple and quick; no special knowledge is required. No special tools are needed - in the process you will need a screwdriver, a screwdriver, a 10 mm socket and a multimeter. It is important to purchase the right heater. It is better to dismantle the faulty heating element and go to the store with it. To avoid making a mistake with your choice, you must:
remember the markings on the tubular heater (the designation is engraved on the part);
Dictate the serial number of the Hayer washing machine to the sales consultant.
It is very important to correctly determine the power of the heating element. Most Haier models have 1800 Watt heaters.
“Native” heating elements for Hayer machines are expensive, about 25-27 US dollars, so you can choose a cheaper analogue from the Indesit brand.
“Indesit” heaters cost half as much. They are fully compatible with Haier washing machines in terms of power and design. Buying a new heating element for a washing machine is not a problem. You can order the part online on the manufacturer’s website or direct intermediaries. Another option is to contact a service center, specialists will help you select a heater.
Instructions for replacing the heater
Even a “newbie” can change the heating element with his own hands. The work will take about 15-20 minutes. It is very important to follow safety rules - before you start disassembling the machine, be sure to turn off the power to it and turn off the water supply tap. The washing machine must be moved away from the wall to gain access to the rear of the cabinet. The further algorithm of actions will be as follows:
examine the back wall of the automatic machine, find the technical door (it occupies most of the panel);
take a screwdriver or screwdriver, unscrew the bolts located around the perimeter of the service hatch, move it to the side;
find the heating element. It is located below, under the washing tank, on the left side;
disconnect the power terminals from the heating element. It is better to take a photo of the wire connection diagram so as not to make a mistake during reassembly;
unhook the contacts of the temperature sensor;
take a 10mm socket and unscrew the central nut of the heater;
remove the heating element from the “socket”.
It is worth noting that the temperature sensor is not removed from the “Hair” heating element. Therefore, when replacing, you will have to buy either a branded heater with a thermistor, or purchase a similar element from another brand and figure out how to disconnect the thermistor from the standard part. Next, you can begin installing a working tubular heater. Install the new heating element into the socket, secure it in the housing with a nut.
When installing a new heater, it is important not to overtighten the fixing nut, otherwise this will lead to deformation of the heating element seal and leaks in the future.
Having fixed the tubular heater, all terminals should be returned to their place. It is important not to make a mistake with the location of the wires, so it is better to focus on the photograph taken earlier.Next, all that remains is to secure the technical hatch door by screwing all the screws back in. If you are not sure that the problem is with the heater, test it with a multimeter. A working heating element with a power of 1800 W should produce a resistance of 25-28 Ohms.
Switch the tester to resistance measurement mode, attach the probes to the heater contacts. If the screen displays a value close to the standard value, the heating element is working. A one on the multimeter display will indicate a break inside the element, a zero will indicate a short circuit in the part.
Additionally, the heating element is checked for breakdown. The multimeter is switched to buzzer mode, one tester probe is applied to the heater terminal, the other to the body. If the device beeps, then the tubular element is faulty. This is how you replace the heating element yourself. After completing the repair, you should check the machine. Run a high temperature wash with an empty drum, making sure the water is heating up. Also check for leaks in the tubular area. If everything is in order, you can safely use the washing machine.
My positive wire fell off, the contact became sour and began to heat up, after which it fell off, put a new terminal on, crimped it and everything worked.
If, after 20 minutes from the start of the high-temperature wash, the glass of the hatch remains cold, it means that the water is not warming up. In most cases, the reason for this is a failed heating element. Operating a machine with a faulty tubular heater is dangerous, so you need to check the element as soon as possible. We'll figure out how to diagnose and replace the part if necessary.
My positive wire fell off, the contact became sour and began to heat up, after which it fell off, put a new terminal on, crimped it and everything worked.